Cooker and oven repair
Electric ovens and cookers — elements, fans, thermostats, door seals and the temperatures that quietly drift.
What this costs
- Call-out and diagnosis
- £49.00£58.80 inc-VAT
- The repair itself
- £30.00£36.00 inc-VAT
- Parts, if any are needed
- Quoted first
6-month guarantee on repair work. Nothing is fitted without your say-so.
An oven rarely stops outright. It drifts. Cakes start catching at the back, a roast takes twenty minutes longer than it used to, and everybody adjusts around it for months before anyone rings. A thermostat reading sixty degrees light is a ten-minute test and usually an inexpensive part.
We repair electric built-in single and double ovens, freestanding electric cookers and electric range cookers. Fan elements, top and base elements, thermostats, door seals, hinges, selector switches and cooling fans are the usual work, and the common parts travel on the van.
Electric appliances only — we do not work on gas cookers or gas ovens. The hob on top of an electric cooker is covered on its own page, because a hob fault is usually a different part from an oven fault.
Faults we see most
If one of these sounds like your appliance, say so when you book — it is often the difference between a repair finished on the day and a second visit for a part.
- Oven not heating at all
- The fan element, the thermostat, or the thermal cut-out behind it that has tripped.
- Food burning at the back or one side only
- A failing fan motor, or an element heating unevenly along its length.
- Temperature is wrong — everything takes far longer
- A drifting thermostat. We test the actual cavity temperature against the dial rather than guessing.
- Heat escaping around the door, glass staying cold
- A perished door seal or dropped hinges. Cheap to fix and it makes a real difference to the bills.
- Top oven or grill working, main oven not
- Usually the element or the selector switch for that cavity — the two are wired separately.
- Oven trips the electrics when it is switched on
- An element that has broken down to earth. We find which one with an insulation test rather than by swapping parts.
- Fan running constantly, even when the oven is off
- The cooling fan thermostat stuck closed.
- Clock or programmer blank, or the oven only works on manual
- The timer module or a failed supply to it — common after a power cut.
What happens on the day
- Actual cavity temperature measured against the dial through a full heat cycle, so a drift of forty or fifty degrees is found rather than assumed.
- Elements tested for resistance and for even heating along their length.
- Door seal and hinge alignment checked — the commonest cause of an oven that will not hold heat.
- Selector switches, thermostat and cooling fan tested individually.
- Earth continuity and insulation checked before we put it back into service.
What we do not do
- Gas cookers and gas ovens. We work on electric appliances only.
- Hard-wiring a new cooker circuit or replacing a cooker switch, which is a qualified electrician's job.
Questions we get asked
Do you work on gas cookers?
No — electric cookers, ovens and hobs only. For a gas appliance you need an engineer registered for gas work. If you are not sure which yours is, a cooker with a gas pipe going into the back is gas.
My oven cooks everything unevenly. Is that fixable?
Usually, and usually inexpensively. It is normally the fan motor slowing or an element heating unevenly. We measure the real cavity temperature through a full cycle rather than trusting the dial.
The door glass has shattered. Can you replace it?
Yes, on most models. Inner and outer door glass is an orderable part — send us the model number and we will price it before the visit.
Is it worth repairing a built-in oven?
Almost always. Replacing a built-in is rarely just the appliance — the aperture, the trim and the housing all have to match, and that turns a part into a kitchen job.