Electric hob repair
Ceramic, induction and solid-plate hobs — rings that will not heat, controls that will not respond, and error codes.
What this costs
- Call-out and diagnosis
- £49.00£58.80 inc-VAT
- The repair itself
- £30.00£36.00 inc-VAT
- Parts, if any are needed
- Quoted first
6-month guarantee on repair work. Nothing is fitted without your say-so.
A hob usually fails one ring at a time, which is why people live with it for so long — three rings still work, so the fourth becomes the one nobody uses. It is nearly always a single part: the element under that ring, or the switch or board that controls it.
We repair ceramic (radiant) hobs, induction hobs and older solid-plate hobs, built-in or as the top of an electric cooker. Radiant elements, energy regulators, touch-control boards, induction power boards and cooling fans are the usual work, and we test each zone on its own rather than the hob as a whole.
Electric hobs only — we do not work on gas hobs.
Faults we see most
If one of these sounds like your appliance, say so when you book — it is often the difference between a repair finished on the day and a second visit for a part.
- One ring not heating, the others fine
- The radiant element under that ring, or the energy regulator that switches it.
- A ring stuck on full whatever the setting
- A welded contact in the energy regulator. It needs replacing rather than cleaning, and soon — it is heating unchecked.
- Touch controls not responding, or the hob locked
- Often only the child lock or a spill across the sensors. Otherwise the touch-control board.
- Induction hob not detecting the pan
- The pan itself first — a magnet should stick to the base. If it does, the coil or the power board for that zone.
- Induction hob showing an error code
- Usually overheating from a blocked or failed cooling fan, or a power-board fault. The code narrows it down.
- The hob trips the electrics
- An element or a board that has broken down to earth. Found with an insulation test, zone by zone.
- Cracked or chipped glass top
- The glass is replaceable on most models. Stop using it until it is — a cracked top can let a spill reach the live parts.
What happens on the day
- Every zone tested on its own, at low and at full, so an intermittent fault shows itself rather than hiding behind the rings that work.
- Elements tested for resistance, and energy regulators for switching.
- On induction, the cooling fan and the power board checked, since overheating causes most of the error codes.
- The supply at the cooker switch or connection unit checked, so a fault in the wiring is not blamed on the hob.
- Earth continuity and insulation checked before we put it back into service.
What we do not do
- Gas hobs. We work on electric appliances only.
- A new cooker circuit or cooker switch, which is a qualified electrician's job. We connect to an existing supply.
Questions we get asked
Is it worth repairing a hob, or should I replace it?
A single dead ring is usually one element or one switch — well under the price of a new hob, and a like-for-like replacement often means recutting the worktop. We will tell you if it is not worth it.
Can you replace cracked glass?
On most ceramic and induction models, yes. The glass comes as a part for the specific hob, so send us the model number — it is on a plate underneath, or in the manual — and we will price it before the visit.
My induction hob beeps and switches off. What is it?
Usually overheating: the cooling fan underneath is blocked or has failed, and the hob protects itself. It is a common and fixable fault.
Can you fit a new hob?
Yes — we install electric hobs to an existing supply. See the installation page, or choose installation on the booking form.